CHICKS AHOY!
SAT 11 MAY 2013
Good session this weekend and encouraging to have new members join the fray.
I thought it may be useful to add a few things to the previous notes and distribute. The notes from the most recent session are in bold.
The previous notes are still applicable so I have left them in. As for this current set of notes, while there are lots of things we could talk about, we only want to focus on the next manoeuvre at all times. We need to make boat handling a simple task, for it to become second nature, and to not confuse everybody with an abundance of information.
This may also be a good time to restate your objectives for the benefit of new team members. Remember that we are not learning how to sail. We are developing competition sailing skills by focussing on the technical aspects of racing on a One Design keel boat. For now, we are working on boat handling to build a solid foundation across all positions on the boat. Later, we will work on individual technique, speed and trim, sailing in differing conditions and bring some specialist coaches to the programme to increase skill levels.
I also thought the boat was quite congested in the cockpit on Saturday so I suggest that for future sessions we should limit POB be 9 crew + 1 coach. I am happy for the boat to sail every Saturday during the Winter Series, so there will be ample opportunity to rotate through an expanded crew list AND swap positions around as the boat handling improves.
BOW
Barb: Upwind: think ahead at all times and know that you and the boat are ready for the next 2 manoeuvres, whatever they may be. Always work on the windward rail. Talk to the Pit, let them know what you are doing/can do/cannot do/need to do. Hit the rail at transitions. Speed out of a rounding is more important than a tidy bow. Clean up when you can but only when the boat is at pace. Get into the habit of looking up whenever you take a halyard in your hand and check that it is free, not twisted, will go up, will come down.
Downwind: be smooth. A confident calm bow makes the whole boat fast as everybody relaxes. Sailing is much more fun on the bow when you don’t have 18 eyes burning holes in the back of your head. Develop habits that make gybes easy. After a bottom mark rounding tell the boat when we are clear to tack. If we are not clear, tell them with more urgency and remedy it.
At marks: only leave the rail when everybody is hiking as we cannot have two off the rail at one time. Ask if it is OK to go forward before doing so, as a manoeuvre may be about to be made that you don’t know about yet. Hit the rail out of all transitions and clean up only when the boat hits targets. For the hoist at the top mark, be responsible for deploying the kite when hoisting from the hatch. In light air this means feeding the kite out below the cracked jib for a rapid set. In heavy air this means keeping the kite under control to keep it in the boat as we bear away. We only want to deploy the kite when it is partly protected by the lee of the jib. Try leaving the jib halyard attached at top marks so there is one less job to do at a bottom mark. Use the restraining clip to keep the jib halyard snug and out of the way when sailing downwind for tidy gybes. Get into a habit regarding the order of work to be done at a mark rounding and follow your habit every time to avoid excessive time on the bow/off the rail. In gybes, take no more of the new brace forward than is necessary as excessive brace in hand can confuse you mid manoeuvre.
MAST
Adam: Upwind: be the boat. You are at the centre of effort for power (adjacent the mast/keel) AND placed at the widest part of the boat (B-max) so every move you make does more for boat trim than anybody else’s. Take the lead on crew weight movement. Feel the different modes of the boat and respond with weight appropriately ie in flat water down pressure, less than 7 knts, weight to leeward to induce 14 degrees angle of heel, keep the boat fast by roll tacks, crew cross together to be more effective, press the rail down to complete the take, keep pressing to build speed. 7-9 knts, weight up and hiking in gusts to keep constant angle of heel, weight in for the lulls, press the boat down in tacks to reduce rudder movement (rudder= handbrake, less rudder movement=faster tack exit speed), weight up and hiking after completing the tack and when boat “attitude” is correct, mid pressure, 9-13 knts, be smooth, cross the boat quickly but smoothly and together, “heads in one line” when hiking AND tacking, take it a little easy hiking so you can press the rail down with an increase in effort in a gust, up pressue, 13-30 knts, hike like crazy, fully projected from the rail at all times, head position is low, bunch up and reduce windage, legs can feel numb, cross boat rapidly in tacks, don’t get caught to leeward, did I mention hike like crazy?
Downwind: think ahead at all times and know that you and the boat are ready for the next 2 manoeuvres, whatever they may be. Eyes on Bow at all times, stay on the rail but watch/back up/provide “Quality Assurance” at all times. Get the new brace for the Bow after a gybe so we a ready to gybe again as soon as possible, flick the lazy sheet around the brace to prevent it falling below the beak, human pole via the lazy sheet whenever the brace is not made including out of gybes.
SEWER/FLOAT
Mandy: At sewer/float/kicker you are the go-for girl, sails, water bottles, battens, etc. Pre start: know where everything is, have kites placed so you know which is which (there will usually be 3), take instructions from the Pit and if in doubt ask.
Upwind: be nimble, be smooth. Feel the different modes of the boat and respond with weight appropriately (see above in Lia’s notes for more details about this)
Downwind: Understand the mechanics that are holding the spinnaker tack in space via topping lift/brace/kicker, the sail needs to be stable and not bounce around in waves so tension pulling the pole down is important, spinnaker pole horizontal at all times for maximum sail projection, big sail=fast, understand that movement of any ONE pole adjustment ie topping lift/brace/kicker will require the other TWO to be adjusted, so brace trimmer AND pit AND kicker trimmer have to work together at all times.
MID BOAT/GRIND
Elisa: Welcome aboard! At mid boat grind you are the glue that holds the centre of the boat together and the back up for the pit position. Eyes on what is happening in the middle of the boat at all times. When the pit needs a third hand it is yours, particularly important at a top mark rounding.
Upwind: think ahead at all times and know that you and the boat are ready for the next 2 manoeuvres, whatever they may be. Always work on the windward rail. Feel the different modes of the boat and respond with weight appropriately (see above in Mast notes for more details about this).
Downwind: always grind from above the cabin top winch, tag out when tired, back up the pit at the drop, hit the rail early at transitions.
PIT
Kate: Good combination with Mast and Bow.
Upwind: Upwind: be nimble, be smooth. Feel the different modes of the boat and respond with weight appropriately (see above in Mast notes for more details about this), think ahead at all times and know that you and the boat are ready for the next 2 manoeuvres, whatever they may be. Always work on the windward rail.
Downwind: communicate with mast and bow, eyes forward at all times, be the “Spokesman” for the front of the boat to reduce chatter amongst the crew, work on the rate of drop for the topping lift in gybes to help the bow be smooth, mark halyards for consistent settings at hoists, spinnaker pole horizontal at all times for maximum sail projection, big sail=fast, understand that movement of any ONE pole adjustment ie topping lift/brace/kicker will require the other TWO to be adjusted, so brace trimmer AND pit AND kicker trimmer have to work together at all times.
At marks: think ahead at all times. Anticipate the order of work to be completed and run through your check list while approaching marks. Only leave the rail when everybody is hiking as we cannot have two off the rail at one time. Ask if it is OK to leave the rail and tidy up before doing so, as a manoeuvre may be about to be made that you don’t know about yet. Hit the rail out of all transitions and clean up only when the boat hits targets. Get into a habit regarding the order of work to be done at a mark rounding and follow your habit every time to avoid excessive time on the bow/off the rail.
TRIM
Nikki: Nice upwind trim and downwind trim in pressure.
Upwind: wear knee pads for quicker and more confident movement around the cockpit, work on earlier trimmer ready calls at tacks (on a fast boat the tactician simply calls tack the boat and they go), eyes on the jib when grinding out of a tack, work on taking the new sheet earlier so the second trimmer can hit the rail, get comfortable with the seated trimming position so that eyes are on tell tales/trim stripes/boat speed in one cone of vision, provide feedback to helm in this order: firstly angle out of the tack, secondly speed to build to target, lastly percentage jib trim, when within 0.5-1.0 knt of target speed bang it in to 100% trim and hit the rail, find a language that you and the helm are comfortable with OUT OF TACKS re boat speed/mode/TWA, think aloud when required, give the helm feedback, keep the helm quiet. In down pressure stay down on the winch and trim constantly. Get used to using the in hauls to make effective sail shapes. Provide positive feedback to the helm out of tacks regarding angles and speed. Contribute to the speed build by thinking aloud WITHOUT becoming verbose.
Downwind: ask for help in shy to shy tacks to handle the metres of sheet required, work on earlier trimmer ready calls at gybes to give the tactician options and avoid telegraphing your moves to the opposition, try trimming from the cockpit. Call pressure in the spinnaker sheet for the helm, provide feedback on opportunities for angle change, find a positive language that you and the helm are comfortable with re boat speed/mode/TWA, think aloud when required, give the helm feedback, keep the helm quiet. Feel the pressure in the kite sheet. Pressure means ease the sheet to induce 30% curl in the leach, fill the sail and provide optimum VMG downwind. Pressure in the kite sheet also means the helm can come away so let them know how the sheet feels (WITHOUT becoming verbose) and help them to steer the boat in a better mode. However, be aware of boat speed versus targets at all times. Sometimes it is better to build speed than soak in pressure. This communication between trim and helm is not easy but when you hear the good trimmers getting it right the positive impact on the performance of the boat down wind is a revelation!
SECOND TRIM
Andrea: Upwind: when tacking in pressure at the new sheet, body position with the sheet in hands needs to be compressed at the leeward winch and expanded to the new windward rail. Be tall. Hit the rail and set up the new sheet from a hiking position. (later, in big wind and waves, let the trimmer do their own set up... just hike, HIKE, HIKE. Call breeze from the rail in up pressure to help the helm/main combination to anticipate.
Downwind: stay on the brace at ALL times. The new brace can be prepared by you at the “setup” call, or can be made for you by your friendly neighbourhood main sheet hand. Be aggressive at the completion stage of the gybe, ie standing posture and crouched position over winch for explosive take up of brace when made. With great technique this can reduce need to grind by 75%. Understand that movement of any ONE pole adjustment ie topping lift/brace/kicker will require the other TWO to be adjusted, so brace trimmer AND pit AND kicker trimmer have to work together at all times. Monitor the performance of the boat (speed/TWA) against the targets posted in the cockpit. Call the wind speed from the cockpit B&G’s and the target angles to provide a benchmark for the trimmer and helm, as they will be eyes on the sails and cannot look away. Be brief with the information and always repeat it the same way eg “pressure 12 knots, 155 target, good angle and speed”. Help out the trimmer when the kite collapses ie a really quickly snap of the brace forward 150-300mm can stop the kite from collapsing and help the trimmer and grinder. Slow grind back to position as soon as kite refills for best trim and VMG downwind. Set the new brace up according to the marks on the brace so the bow never has more brace than is required for the next gybe.
MAINSHEET
Daphne: Upwind: constant chat with helm on speed and attitude, constant eyes on boat speed to keep the boat accelerating, monitor the boat mode and ask yourself “what will the boat speed be in 5 seconds time?”, “How do I respond now?”, aggressive traveller down when required in gusts, speed build when required, boat flat to accelerate and traveller up as the boat gets to targets and comes hard on the breeze. Find a positive language that you and the helm are comfortable with re boat speed/mode/TWA, think aloud when required, give the helm feedback, keep the helm quiet. Call crew weight if it is not happening to your liking. Quietly provide the helm with feedback re target speed and boat mode at all times.
Downwind: back up the brace trimmer out of gybes by grinding, set up new brace so trimmer can remain on station, eyes aft for feedback to helm re pressure on the race track aft. Gybe main manually unless prevented from doing so by sailing in up pressure and immediately spin to grind for the brace trimmer.
HELM
Rowe: It’s the hardest job on the boat so it takes the most effort and concentration to do well. Relax, let the crew know you are calm and in control, feel the boat.
Upwind: get in mode with the main sheet trimmer, small adjustments of the helm, keep the angle of heel constant, generally speak less than the mainsheet trimmer does as you want the result (speed and height) not a conversation, let them give you the feedback so you are both thinking the same way, encourage them to think aloud so that you form a good combination and get into the right mode more quickly, remember less helm = more boat speed. Trust the crew to setup and prepare for manoeuvres and let them get on with it. Things WILL go wrong, and when they do keep the boat fast/clean/safe while they fix it. The more often they fix things that have gone wrong the less frequently things will go wrong. We want speed out of tacks before height every time. Monitor your exit speed from each tack to judge your technique and refine as required ie what was the bottom speed before acceleration? Try a really small press at the “set up” call if the boat is decelerating. Eyes on the decimal points as well as the tell tales. Think about what the boat will be doing in 5 seconds time and ask what can I do to improve that now?
Downwind: listen to the trimmer for feedback on sheet pressure as they will often feel it in the sheet before you feel it in the boat, find a positive language that you and the trimmer are comfortable with re boat speed/mode/TWA, accept feedback and filter out whatever is not relevant, keep quiet because when you are quite everybody else follows your lead, small helm movements, think about your weight movement in the gybe, at the “set up” call identify your gybe angle and find a target to aim at on your exit for correct TWA on the next gybe, encourage feedback from brace trimmer re target angles for the wind speed, encourage everybody all the time re boat mode, if you tell them when it feels really good and they get used to hearing it they will know when things are not right without you saying a word!
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